The Landscapes of Ethiopia - Addis to Gondar

It seems everywhere you go in Ethiopia, the magnificent landscapes leave you gob smacked.  After my first good impression driving south to Langano, I couldn’t believe the views on the drive from Addis to Bahir Dar and from there onwards to Gondar.  The lands are varied and shift from deep gorges to high, mountain passes.  Everywhere, a unique vibrant green mixed with dark brown, freshly ploughed fields are a gift to the eyes. 

The 9–hour drive to Bahir Dar flies past by simply looking out the window. The most momentous experience on the road is the crossing of the Blue Nile. The views from the windy road down the valley escarpment are second only to crossing the bridge over the river itself. The moment only lasts a few seconds but provides a ‘gorge’-ous view through the gorge with high, vegetated cliffs on either side. Driving back up to the plateau takes you passed successive colorful Orthodox churches while the Blue Nile twists and turns beneath.

The most astounding natural feat near Bahir Dar is beyond doubt the Blue Nile Falls. It is a 40-minute drive on a bumpy, dirt road to reach the place where you begin your walk to reach the best view. Before reaching the Falls, you cross the Portuguese bridge that was constructed in the 1600s. It is built out of stone and rather than being straight, it extends diagonally in the direction of the flow of the river and then turns diagonally back to end straight across from its starting point, forming a triangle. It is used today as it was 400 years ago, with time leaving little trace on the antiquated structure.  Perhaps the shockingly low level of water in the river has made it easier on the old stones.

Upon reaching the Falls, I was amazed at its sheer size. Steep cliffs drop for over a kilometer with water sliding over the edge at three distinct places.  The biggest of these is the furthest on the right, which you can hear from kilometers away.  On the left flows a fall from the dam that diverts much of the water and severely damages the Falls’ former grandeur.  Hopefully, when the Renaissance Dam is completed, this one will be taken out of action, and the Falls will be returned to their full immensity.

A more threatening disappointment of the country is the level of abject deforestation noticeable everywhere.  Magnificent native trees stand scattered between fields while gatherings of young Eucalyptus trees are waiting to be cut down. When the trees go, what then? Where the earth has been cut clear, the soil will soon be carried away, deserting its ancient home. Wood continues to be the primary source of energy for cooking, light and keeping warm as well as the most important building material for traditional homes and Addis’ plethora of scaffolding.

While this is noticeable on the road to Gondar, the concern is almost drowned by an epic landscape of mountainous, fertile land. Traditional villages are found among the terraced hills they rely on for subsistence. From the slopes protrude giant stone colossi rising hundreds of meters into the air.  It is as if they were titans from another time banished to eternal slumber. The more scientific reason is to be found in the geological history of the Great Rift Valley.  According to Planet Earth, millions of years ago, immense volcanic activity created an enormous stone dome over what is now Ethiopia. Through millennia of erosion, these great rock formations are all that remain.

Although the city of Gondar does boast some impressive scenery, the medieval castles are a testimony to Africa’s pre-colonial kingdoms.  Gondar was founded by Emperor Fasilides around 1635 and served as the capital of the Amhara-led Ethiopian Empire until 1855. The castles of each successive emperor still stand, if in dire need of renovation.  The castles are built of stone and wood and were the first of their kind to appear in Ethiopia. However, these castles are not in line with the European imagination.  They are quite small and poorly defended by a low wall that goes around the compound.  The advent of cannons had not quite reached Ethiopia at this time shifting the priorities of architecture from high, slanted walls to more small scale and resource conserving buildings. Unfortunately the tourism services are lacking and there is little information open to the public unless you are willing to pay for an expensive guide. There are no visual reconstructions of the castles so the mind is left to itself to picture them at their height. Hopefully, with the arrival of more tourists and greater investment, the castles will be put on a more memorable display, worthy of its appeal.

For more photos of Ethiopia, follow the links below:

Bahir Dar
Gondar