Granada

“If you were to visit only a city in Spain, this should be Granada.” - Ernest Hemingway

Granada cannot be explained, it must be seen. There are few places in the world that instill the same sensation of awe and wonder.  It comes to little surprise that Boabdil, last Sultan of Granada, shed tears of sadness upon leaving the city after the Catholic conquest in 1492.

I arrived in Granada at about 12:00 on Saturday the 1st of February, all alone, with only a vague description on how to get to the Oasis Hostel Granada from the bus station.  Luckily, the buses don't tell you what stop it is and I was left guessing which one the "cathedral stop" was.  So in the end I got off two stations after the one I was supposed to and began sightseeing before checking in. 

Walking towards the center of the Alhambra

While travelling in low season means not having to reserve tickets to the Alhambra online, I was quite eager to get inside after queuing for an hour (especially after I discovered I didn't have enough cash and had to run to an ATM. Thankfully, the guard let me pass without having to wait once more!). However, whether or not I had waited two hours, it would still have been worth it.

View of the Albaiyzín behind me

The Alhambra is an astonishing patchwork of history whose edifices tell the tale of imperial glory and cultural achievement.  I was extremely impressed by the remarkable detail of the Nasrid Palaces, showcasing the highest forms of Arab architecture.  In the Generalife, I tried to imagine the Sultan of Granada, escaping his daily obligations to enjoy the magnificent view. 

However, my best experience of the Alhambra was standing on top of the Torre de la Vela, the watchtower overlooking Granada. By that time the skies had cleared and the setting sun cast a beautiful light upon the land. Looking down one could see the city of Granada while if one turned around one could see the Sierra Nevada.

The Alcazaba of the Alhambra

In the evening I went to a tapas bar to have a dinner of sorts with Kohl, a friend from the language course who came to visit for a few hours (Visit his blog, Gayography).  Perhaps the greatest thing after the Alhambra in Granada are the complimentary tapas that come with your drinks! And not just a bowl of chips but a delicious bread with jamón and Roquefort cheese.  

Next to us were two drunk men, one of whom turned out to be a flamenco singer upon which the effect of alcohol gave the urgent need to sing.  He gave an amazing show despite the laments of the bartender who looked like he has seen this too many times. One thing I am finding interesting in Andalusia, is the prevailing popularity of traditional culture such as flamenco.  For example, while walking on the streets in Granada I came across three aspiring young boys who gave an impressive performance.

View of Granada from the watchtower

At night, I met a group of Americans studying abroad in Granada that I met in Seville.  Great people who like to party :) but more on nightlife in an upcoming post on, "la vida de la noche" en Andalusia...

An entire wall full with graffiti in Realejo

The next day I explored Realejo, the old Jewish quarter which is now the student/creative/still-cheap-to-live part of town famous for its graffiti art.  While worth the walk, I didn’t discover anything particularly out of the ordinary.  Yes, some of the graffiti was cool but it wasn't all together awe-inspiring. 

Afterwards, I went to the Albayzín; the old Muslim neighborhood.  The viewpoint by the church of San Nicolas is breath taking. It provides a perfect view of the Alhambra with the Sierra Nevada as a backdrop. It is easy to spend a lot time here enjoying the view and the listening to the street performance of, “Bamboleo” by the Gipsy Kings.

Going to Granada was also an interesting experience for me because it was the first time I organized and traveled somewhere completely by myself. While I did meet people I know there, it was the first time I went sightseeing and did things on my own.  It has its benefits in that I could do whatever I wanted, whenever I wanted without having to wait.  All the same, a travel companion or two to share the experiences of travel with are always heartily welcomed. 

Click here to see all of my photos from the trip